U. S. Mission Trail / The Mission Trail Today - The Spanish Missions in California
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#2 Monterey Royal Presidio
Founded June 3, 1770
by Father Junipero Serra

Personal Observations

We visited Monterey Presidio for the first time on September 2, 2007, the day that the Presidio Chapel closed for several years of restoration. The Chapel is the only part of the original presidio still standing. I returned for Easter in 2018 and again a few months later to see the restored Chapel. Photo-Art
Mission Art & Photo-Art

History

The Cathedral of San Carlos Borromeo de Monterey, also known as the Royal Presidio Chapel, was established on June 3, 1770 by Father Junipero Serra. On that day, Father Serra held the first Mass on the shores of Monterey Bay beneath an oak tree. A Chapel was built nearby but a year later, the Mission was moved to Carmel and the original chapel became the Royal Presidio Chapel for the Royal Presidio de Monterey, the second presidio founded in California. The original wooden chapel was destroyed by fire in 1789, rebuilt of stone, completed in 1794, and still stands today. Today the 1794 cathedral is the oldest continuously operating parish in the United States, the oldest stone building in California, the smallest cathedral in the United States, and one of the two oldest buildings serving as a cathedral in the United States (the other is St. Louis Cathedral in New Orleans, Louisiana, also completed in 1794). Today, the chapel is the only remaining remnant of the Royal Presidio de Monterey

On February 20, 1769, Father Junipero Serra and Don Gaspar de Portola were given instructions to conduct an expedition to Alta (Upper) California. Father Serra became the founder of the California Missions, Gaspar was the military commander. They left Mexico City to establish a presidio and Mission at San Diego which they did on July 16, 1769. Once accomplishing this task, in April 1770, they continued north in two separate units, one by land (Portola and Father Crespi), one by sea (Father Serra, and Captain Perez), meeting in Monterey. The land expedition arrived at Monterey on Ascension Day, May 24, 1770 but the ship didnt arrive until June 1, 1770. On Pentecost Sunday, June 3, 1770, Father Serra said the first Mass in Monterey beneath an oak tree, near the native village of Tamo. thus founding the Mission and Presidio.

Soon after, a site for the Presidio was chosen near the ocean and a estuary (now a small lake a few steps from the Chapel). The first Presidio Chapel was dedicated to St. Joseph and built of poles and mud walls and thatched roof. There were some issues between Serra and the military so a year later, on December 24, 1771, Father Junipero Serra relocated the Mission a few miles west to a site beside the Carmel River. The new site became Mission San Carlos Borromeo de Rio Carmelo (Father Serra is buried there) and the original site continued serving the people of the Presidio and the town and has continued in service to the present.

The Presidio was the town Monterey for the first fifty years and in 1775, Monterey became the capital of both Alta and Baja California (Upper and Lower) and the Presidio Chapel became the Royal Presidio Chapel. The original Chapel was destroyed by fire in 1789 and rebuilt (the current building) of sandstone, completed in 1794. Mexico gained independence from Spain on April 9, 1822 and the presidio became less important, yielding to Custom House Plaza adjacent to today's Fisherman's Wharf. In 1835 the Presidio Chapel transferred to civil jurisdiction.

By 1840, the Presidio Chapel was the only presidio building still in use and the local Ohlone, Costanoan and Essalen people used the tiles and adobes from the rest of the buildings for their own homes. The government had moved to Casa de Gobierno (or El Cuartel) in town but the Chapel was still the parish church. Father Jose de Real arrived in 1840 as the first pastor and the patronage of the Chapel was changed from St. Joseph to St. Charles (San Carlos Borromeo). The Holy See created the Diocese of Monterey in 1849 and the new bishop, Joseph Alemany, designated the Royal Chapel as his pro-cathedral. Starting in 1856, a series of successors rebuilt the reredos (wooden altar piece), enlarge the Chapel, added transepts, a new sanctuary, and a new sacristy. In 1859 the bishop moved closer to Los Angeles and the Cathedral became a church in the new Diocese of Monterey- Los Angeles. Father Angelo Casanova (pastorate 1870-1893) installed whalebone paving in front of the Chapel and, in 1893, the pyramidal roof on the bell tower. Father Ramon Mestres (pastorate 1893-1930) added the stone wall along Fremont Street sometime before 1920 and in 1921, he constructed the Lourdes Grotto replica.

The Great Depression and World War II put an end to discussions of building a new church in favor of restoration. Harry Downey supervised the restoration that began in 1942. The Fascinini reredos and whalebone pavement were removed. The Gothic stained glass windows (added in 1858) were replaced with rectangular openings in the Spanish Colonial style. This restoration uncovered lost niches for statues in the nave and the interior was repainted, guided by traces of the original colors that were found under old finishes. The Pacheco crypt, added years earlier, was filled in. New front doors were added based on those at Mission in Diego. Victorian interior decorative elements of the 1858 were replaced to reflect the Spanish Colonial period. Another restoration was begun in 2007 (images below). Water retaining concrete was removed and drainage added. The roof was repaired, parts of the southern wall were replaced, and a seismic retrofit now ties the building together. The chapel again became a cathedral (of the Diocese of Monterey) when the Diocese of Monterey-Fresno was split in 1967 to form the Monterey and Fresno dioceses and Fresno dioceses and still serves the community of Monterey.

The story of the Vizcaino/Serra Oak is somewhat complex. The history of the tree under which the first Mass was held had been lost, the tree died in 1905, and one day if was tossed into the ocean. It was retrieved and stood behind the Chapel for many years but eventually it decayed and now only a small section is displayed at the Cathedral.

The chapel was listed on the National Register of Historic Places #NPS-66000216 in 1960. National Historic Landmark by the National Park Service. California Historical Landmark #105

Style and Architecture

The Royal Presidio Chapel is built in the Spanish Colonial style with Moorish influence. It is the first stone building in California and the front facade is substantially unchanged in 200 years. The Royal Presidio Chapel is the only building remaining from the original Monterey Presidio, it has never been a ruin, and has been in continuous use. The niche at the top of the front facade contains a statue of Our Lady of Guadalupe and is the oldest non-indigenous sculpture in the State. To the east of the Cathedral is a statue of the Virgin Mary. A short distance east of the front facade is a replica of the Lourdes Grotto. Surrounding are parish buildings, the school, and other statuary.

Address, Directions, and Hours

500 Church Street
Monterey, CA 93940
Mass Schedule
Saturday (Sunday Vigil): 4:00 pm and 6:00 pm (bilingual English Spanish)
Sunday: 7:30 am, 9:00am, 10:30 am, 12 Noon, and 5:30 pm
Monday through Friday: 7:45 am and 12:15 pm (except holidays)

The Royal Presidio Chapel Heritage Center is located in the Parish Offices Building located to the east of the Chapel/Cathedral.
Heritage Center & Docent Tour Hours
Our regular hours of operation are:
Friday/Saturday/Sunday: 10:00 am - 2:00 pm
2nd and 4th Monday: 1:15pm - 3:15 pm
Tuesday: closed
Wednesday: 10:00 am - 12:00 pm
Thursday: closed
The Heritage Center is usually closed during Holy Week, the week of Thanksgiving, and the Christmas / New Year holidays.
On September 2, 2007, the Chaple closed for restoration. Here are photographs from that day and after the restoration was complete.

Photography Gallery


Front facade under restoration.

Interior the last day before closing for restoration.

Exterior, front and side facades under restoration.

Bell tower. Photo date: 9-2-07.

Side facade. Photo date: 9-2-07.

Left of main altar.


Front interior toward altar.

Right side interior.


Looking forward.

Exhibit.


All that remains of the tree under which the first Mass was held.

Lourdes Grotto replica to the left of the front facade.



New to 2018, after the restoration.

Front facade on Easter in 2018. The large white sign directs people to the Easter Mass at the Hall across the street.


Before the Easter Mass, 2018.

After the Easter Mass, 2018.

Looking up at the front facade on Easter 2018. The niche at the top contains a statue of Our Lady of Guadalupe.

Looking up at the front facade on Easter 2018.


Labor Day 2018.


Front facade and bell tower.

Front facade and bell tower.

Bell tower, Labor Day 2018.


The east side, left side if looking at the front facade.

Closer view of the door in the east side.


West side.

Interior and altar, Easter 2018.

Interior and altar, Easter 2018.


Interior and altar, Easter 2018.

Interior, looking at the back of the church. April 1, 2018.

This side altar is to the left of the main altar. September3, 2018.


Side altar is to the left of the main altar. September3, 2018.

Votive candles at the right side. Easter 2018.

Figure of Christ and baptismal near the entry.

This Lourdes Grotto replica is a few steps outside the main entrance.


Another view of the Lourdes Grotto replica.


Statue and fountain east of the Chapel.

A small shrine around the corner at Church Street and Freemont Street to the east.

Because a large number of people (including this author) were expected for Easter 2018, the Easter Mass was held at the larger Hall across the street. Staff and volunteers worked many hours setting up a beautiful display.


photo links here

Sources:

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This page last updated: Thursday, 18-Feb-2021 17:39:42 CST
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